My mother used to serve shad roe every spring. I remember that it was weird but I liked it, especially when it was served with bacon. So when I visited Connolly's fish market recently and saw a beautiful pair of roe I snatched it up, even though my failures at cooking roe have outnumbered my successes. I don't usually eat bacon any more, and I didn't want to buy a whole pound just to use a strip or two, but I crossed my fingers and reached for James Beard.
"It seems to be a dish that has but two extremes -- wonderful and horrible." Just my memory. I read on. His favorite recipe, clearly, is "smothered shad roe", which involves an unconscionable amount of butter and some bacon. I read the recipe for broiled shad roe, which included the sentence: "Personally, I think that to parboil and then broil shad roe is to make it unfit for human consumption." Unfit it often is, and I remembered somehow having done that to it in years past.
I then reached for the tried and true Joy of Cooking. All the entries under shad roe called for canned roe, and all the recipes under roe (which was also shad roe) started with parboiling. Rombauer and Becker agree that overcooked shad is tasteless. I decided to go with Beard's approach, remembering that in Julie and Julia Rombauer is portrayed as not ever having considered testing the recipes in Joy. To ease the quantity of butter I used 1/2 butter and 1/2 canola oil.
James Beard's smothered shad roe: melt and warm 3 oz of butter (I used about 1 and 1/2 oz. with an equal amount of oil) per pair of roe. Dip the roe in the melted butter; then cover the pan and simmer over a low flame for about 12 to 15 minutes. turning once. I did this, and served it with boiled whole wheat pasta dressed with sun dried tomatoes and shitake mushrooms, and a Sarah salad (post coming shortly).
It was delicious!
Monday, March 28, 2011
Monday, September 13, 2010
Seafood Risotto
The foolproof way to make a risotto is with barley, but you don't get quite the creamy texture. I spent the morning at Williams Sonoma at a "risotto technique class" and on the way home I gathered up ingredients for mine. (It was much better than theirs!) I went to Connolly's and got 2 fish frames for the stock (if you decide to follow this recipe, take a look at my fish stock guidelines) and about 3/4 of a pound each of bay scallops, squid, and large shrimp. At Market Basket I got several different brands of Arborio rice (the rice they used at WS was wicked expensive and not noticeably better to my mind).
I started the fish stock. For the risotto, I diced one onion and sauteed it in butter and good olive oil in my 6 qt. pot (not as nice as theirs, but I think a better shape). Then I added minced garlic and sliced shitake mushrooms (I'd put the stems in the stock). When the vegetables were soft I added the squid, sliced thin, along with the scallops and the shrimp (peeled -- I added the peels to the stock). The problem was that the fish, except for the shrimp, was very small, and I wanted to remove it before I added the rice. I used a pair of tongs and got most of it out, but there was not much oil or butter left so I added some.
The rice went in next --the idea is to sautee it till the rice is translucent and you can see the white in the center. Not sure I got there, and I think the oil was quite moist because of the fish. Eric was visiting and asked that I not put any wine in the rice. I don't think it made any difference in the final result.
By the time the rice was ready to be moistened the fish stock had come to a boil several times. I used a measuring cup to ladel out stock, approximately 1 cup each time (or a bit less). At WS they had stirred the risotto until the liquid was absorbed each time and then added more, so I followed that process. I think it works well -- perhaps helps the rice to release more liquid.
When the rice was tender enough -- still a bit al dente -- I added the fish. Another problem -- the fish had a good amount of liquid so the addition brought the rice to a bit beyond al dente. I grated some asagio cheese and added that.
It was really good. The next time all I'll change is finding a way to cook the fish so that it doesn't mess up the rice. I think if there is so much of it and it's cut small it will need to be prepared separately. Maybe cooked first, and then strained so that the liquid can be mixed into the rice as it cooks.
What else did we have? Bread, and a salad of summer greens and tomatoes from the garden. I'm growing Polish Linguica Tomatoes this year -- no kidding! They are really good. And a great way to prepare a tomatoe salad is to cut the tomatoe up and mix it with vinegar (and herbs and onion etc if you want). Let them sit while you prepare dinner and then strain the juice off and make the salad as usual.
I started the fish stock. For the risotto, I diced one onion and sauteed it in butter and good olive oil in my 6 qt. pot (not as nice as theirs, but I think a better shape). Then I added minced garlic and sliced shitake mushrooms (I'd put the stems in the stock). When the vegetables were soft I added the squid, sliced thin, along with the scallops and the shrimp (peeled -- I added the peels to the stock). The problem was that the fish, except for the shrimp, was very small, and I wanted to remove it before I added the rice. I used a pair of tongs and got most of it out, but there was not much oil or butter left so I added some.
The rice went in next --the idea is to sautee it till the rice is translucent and you can see the white in the center. Not sure I got there, and I think the oil was quite moist because of the fish. Eric was visiting and asked that I not put any wine in the rice. I don't think it made any difference in the final result.
By the time the rice was ready to be moistened the fish stock had come to a boil several times. I used a measuring cup to ladel out stock, approximately 1 cup each time (or a bit less). At WS they had stirred the risotto until the liquid was absorbed each time and then added more, so I followed that process. I think it works well -- perhaps helps the rice to release more liquid.
When the rice was tender enough -- still a bit al dente -- I added the fish. Another problem -- the fish had a good amount of liquid so the addition brought the rice to a bit beyond al dente. I grated some asagio cheese and added that.
It was really good. The next time all I'll change is finding a way to cook the fish so that it doesn't mess up the rice. I think if there is so much of it and it's cut small it will need to be prepared separately. Maybe cooked first, and then strained so that the liquid can be mixed into the rice as it cooks.
What else did we have? Bread, and a salad of summer greens and tomatoes from the garden. I'm growing Polish Linguica Tomatoes this year -- no kidding! They are really good. And a great way to prepare a tomatoe salad is to cut the tomatoe up and mix it with vinegar (and herbs and onion etc if you want). Let them sit while you prepare dinner and then strain the juice off and make the salad as usual.
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Mussels from OWL
This past weekend Chief, Wyatt, and I gathered mussels from the beach at the Old Wharf Lot. They had been plentiful several years ago, but in the past couple of years my favorite places were barren, and a few red tides had gotten me quite out of the habit. Sunday the two grandboys and I found an amazing trove of them hidden under seaweed on the rocks at low tide. We brought up lots -- really too many. I cooked them for dinner, along with spaghetti and a salad. The boys stuck to the spaghetti and the salad.
Saturday night we'd gone to the Lobster Pool and I'd ordered mussels. Why, Chief wanted to know, were the mussels so much smaller. "The ones I crack for bait to catch crabs fill up the whole shell." I explained that when the mussels cook they shrink. But truth to tell the Lobster Pool mussels were quite overcooked. The ones I cooked were much bigger and much tastier. However, they were also quite gritty. Cleaning mussels means scraping lots of stuff -- mostly beards and barnacles -- off, and I had definitely short changed the process.
To try to clean them a bit more I boiled some water and steamed them briefly, no doubt sacrificing a major bit of flavor. Then I transferred them to a pot where I'd sauteed peppers -- red and green, plus a small hot Thai pepper -- plus an onion in oil. I added some white wine and the water I'd steamed them in, which I'd strained to try to catch sand and stuff. As they opened I turned off the heat and served them in the cooking pot.
We ate them for dinner, and for lunch the next day, and... and finally I threw the last few away.
Saturday night we'd gone to the Lobster Pool and I'd ordered mussels. Why, Chief wanted to know, were the mussels so much smaller. "The ones I crack for bait to catch crabs fill up the whole shell." I explained that when the mussels cook they shrink. But truth to tell the Lobster Pool mussels were quite overcooked. The ones I cooked were much bigger and much tastier. However, they were also quite gritty. Cleaning mussels means scraping lots of stuff -- mostly beards and barnacles -- off, and I had definitely short changed the process.
To try to clean them a bit more I boiled some water and steamed them briefly, no doubt sacrificing a major bit of flavor. Then I transferred them to a pot where I'd sauteed peppers -- red and green, plus a small hot Thai pepper -- plus an onion in oil. I added some white wine and the water I'd steamed them in, which I'd strained to try to catch sand and stuff. As they opened I turned off the heat and served them in the cooking pot.
We ate them for dinner, and for lunch the next day, and... and finally I threw the last few away.
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Christmas 2009
This is to remind myself about our Christmas festivities. I always forget what comes first, and so does everyone else. So here's the 2009 schedule:
1:30 or so -- Paddle Tennis
4:00 or so -- People get here
4:30 or so -- open presents. This year there were 16 grandkids -- 8 under eleven, 8 over. Secret Santa was just the grandkids, and there were a few random other presents. Great Uncle Evan, as always, played Santa. The under-elevens were so pumped about presents that it was the earlier the better, so we started a bit before the Sards and Michaeline were there.
Then we eat... More on that in the next post.
And the we light the candles and sing caroles until the candles burn down.
And then we sat around in the kitchen -- whoever was left -- and just hung out.
1:30 or so -- Paddle Tennis
4:00 or so -- People get here
4:30 or so -- open presents. This year there were 16 grandkids -- 8 under eleven, 8 over. Secret Santa was just the grandkids, and there were a few random other presents. Great Uncle Evan, as always, played Santa. The under-elevens were so pumped about presents that it was the earlier the better, so we started a bit before the Sards and Michaeline were there.
Then we eat... More on that in the next post.
And the we light the candles and sing caroles until the candles burn down.
And then we sat around in the kitchen -- whoever was left -- and just hung out.
Saturday, April 25, 2009
fusion stir fry
The stir fry included onions, garlic, shrimp, a can of water chestnuts, and chopped fennel and broccoli rabe. I used plain vegetable oil (maybe soy?), added a bit of hot sesame oil at the very end, and served it with soy sauce. The brocsolli rabe and fennel were already sending it in a kind of Italian direction, so I served it with orzo, to which I added both butter and sesame seeds. That's it!!
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Back to my basics
For some reason, I have not made a simple vegetable stir fry with rice for ages. Last night Duncan's train was late, so we decided not to go to the poetry reading at the Pleasant Street Tea Company. We got to the library just before closing and picked out 3 DVD's to take home. Duncan chose which one to watch while I made a quick supper.
I made a quick stir fry in the wok with sliced onions, garlic, ginger sauteed in vegetable oil (soy, I think). When the vegetables were soft I added cubed tofu (firm, or extra firm?), and then broccoli in small pieces which I microwaved for a couple of minutes, and sliced red cabbage which I added to the broccoli for the last minute. A bit of hot pepper sauce, and then chopped fresh parsley and basil, completed the stir fry.
I served it with rice to which I added about a half cup of carrot juice (because the rice came out kind of dry).
The movie was fabulous -- After the Wedding, a Danish film. We ate the stir fry with chopsticks. Ever notice how hard it is to eat with chopsticks and watch a subtitled movie?
I made a quick stir fry in the wok with sliced onions, garlic, ginger sauteed in vegetable oil (soy, I think). When the vegetables were soft I added cubed tofu (firm, or extra firm?), and then broccoli in small pieces which I microwaved for a couple of minutes, and sliced red cabbage which I added to the broccoli for the last minute. A bit of hot pepper sauce, and then chopped fresh parsley and basil, completed the stir fry.
I served it with rice to which I added about a half cup of carrot juice (because the rice came out kind of dry).
The movie was fabulous -- After the Wedding, a Danish film. We ate the stir fry with chopsticks. Ever notice how hard it is to eat with chopsticks and watch a subtitled movie?
Friday, March 13, 2009
Monkfish Vietnamese style
Monkfish was under $8 per pound today at Conneley's. I bought about a pound and three quarters to feed me, Eric, Don, and Duncan -- and then realized that Lee might be arriving as well. I added shrimp (I try to keep a few pounds in my freezer), and they were a good addition.
When I think of monkfish I think of that wonderful picture of Julia Child holding what looks something like a huge oil spill. She is holding the fish above her head with one hand; its head is resting on the floor. It is surely ugly!
Monkfish have the consistency of lobsters and very little flavor. I looked up how Julia cooks them, but decided to use Vietnamese flavors and preparation. Here goes (it was good, of course, otherwise I wouldn't bother you with it):
Use a large, flat pan (I used a wok, but think my paella pan would have worked better). Warm up olive oil (1/3 cup?) and saute one chopped onion, 2 or 3 minced cloves of garlic, and a good bit of chopped ginger. Add about one half small head of white cabbage, shredded, and mix around with the other stuff. I also added chopped brocolli stems and some shrimp.
Cut the monkfish into serving size pieces and place them in a mixing bowl. Add fish sauce, lemon and lime juice, soy sauce, and a bit of hot sesame oil. I would have added plain sesame oil as well, but I've run out. Mix this and let the monkfish marinate briefly. Then add the fish to the cabbage mixture, burying each piece of fish in the cabbage. Turn the ingredients over several times as you cook them on medium to high heat. Child says to make sure they cook through but not so long as to begin to fall apart. I think it took about 10 minutes.
I served it with brocolli and pasta.
When I think of monkfish I think of that wonderful picture of Julia Child holding what looks something like a huge oil spill. She is holding the fish above her head with one hand; its head is resting on the floor. It is surely ugly!
Monkfish have the consistency of lobsters and very little flavor. I looked up how Julia cooks them, but decided to use Vietnamese flavors and preparation. Here goes (it was good, of course, otherwise I wouldn't bother you with it):
Use a large, flat pan (I used a wok, but think my paella pan would have worked better). Warm up olive oil (1/3 cup?) and saute one chopped onion, 2 or 3 minced cloves of garlic, and a good bit of chopped ginger. Add about one half small head of white cabbage, shredded, and mix around with the other stuff. I also added chopped brocolli stems and some shrimp.
Cut the monkfish into serving size pieces and place them in a mixing bowl. Add fish sauce, lemon and lime juice, soy sauce, and a bit of hot sesame oil. I would have added plain sesame oil as well, but I've run out. Mix this and let the monkfish marinate briefly. Then add the fish to the cabbage mixture, burying each piece of fish in the cabbage. Turn the ingredients over several times as you cook them on medium to high heat. Child says to make sure they cook through but not so long as to begin to fall apart. I think it took about 10 minutes.
I served it with brocolli and pasta.
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