My grandson Lyle has 5 or 6 lobster traps just off the Old Wharf Lot. He's been setting the traps for three or four years now. He checks them every day, and lots of times the lobsters in his traps are too small, or egg-bearers, and have to be released. Sometimes, however, he gets a keeper, and recently he's been getting two at a time.
Still, with the size of our family (tonight's gathering was 13), two lobsters don't go very far (though one night he trapped a really big one and Duncan, Margi, William, and I shared it). So I had to come up with a recipe that would foreground the lobster and still feed a small army. Paella is it.
Paella, according to Julee Russo and Sheila Lukins (The New Basics Cookbook), was a Spanish cowboy dish "originally cooked outdoors and eaten directly out of the pan." I use their "grand gaucho paella" as an inspiration and starting point.
Tonight Lyle provided two lobsters, which his mother Julie cooked ahead of time (to make sure they lived and died in a proper way). The other key ingredient for my version is chorizo, the hot version, cooked on the grill.
I cook 4 or so cups of risotto rice, following the usual risotto recipe (saute onions, peppers, garlic in oil; add the rice; stir until the rice is golden; add a cup or so of white wine and stir and cook till the wine is absorbed. Continue to cook the rice by adding, one cup at a time, hot broth. Clam juice or mussel broth would be great -- tonight I used a can of crushed tomatoes cut with an equal part of water). Since we're doing a paella, I use lots of peppers.
When the risotto is al dente, spoon it into a paella pan. (I have one that I've had for over 40 years -- it's a Danske pan, about 14 inches in diameter, round and with sloped sides and two handles. If you don't have a paella pan, I think a large frying pan, or maybe even a wok, would do.) Put the rice in the pan into a warm oven (250). I stirred in some cut up steamed vegetables -- three small zucchini (one from my garden -- it's been a slow zucchini year), and a half a pound of green beans -- and a handful of pitted Calamata olives. I had some saffron, so I added that. I can't tell what difference it makes. I also added some frest cilantro.
Next cut up the lobster; add the tails, in little chunks, to the risotto. Reserve the claws and the feelers, and if there's any good roe or tamale stir that into the risotto. Grill the chorizo, slice it thin, and add that and shrimp to the paella, but don't stir those in. Put the pan back in the oven until you're ready to eat. Then add the lobster claws and the feelers -- decoratively. There's always a fight about who gets a claw.
This recipe fed 13 people with leftovers. We had some slices of grilled steak and chicken. They could have gone into the paella, but I left the meat on the side for the picky eaters. (I don't think there actually were any.) I served it with bread and butter, and a green salad (lettuce and cucumbers from my garden!)
Just before dinner I walked down to the beach. It was extreme low tide. I was tempted to harvest mussels and clams to add to the paella -- but I was just not sure enough that they'd be safe.
This is a real improv meal. A risotto or rice base, with whatever added in. After all, the gauchos were using whatever they happened to have on hand that night.
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